![]() Master cylinder (I always bench bleed before installing) From what I gather the order of bleeding should be: Sounds like an interesting project.ĭid some brief checking in the 56 and the 57 manuals. How are you handling the pressure difference requirements as well as the increased volume of fluid needed by the calipers?īe patient and organized. I am interested in how you are using the single master cylinder with the disc front only conversion. It makes things a lot easier and it is a one person job. I do have an adapter so I can pressure bleed the system. Each has a preferred own approach to bleeding. My experience is that this method means I am pushing air out the shortest line first so it cannot “sneak” back into a longer line later. On some cars the longest line might be to the left rear. I start by bleeding the shortest brake line and work my way around the car to the next longest line. I know this suggestion will create controversy. After I got that fixed that things went a lot better.īleed the master, bleed at the booster, then bleed the wheels. The worse part was that air was getting back into the system. I was getting a small amount of brake fluid on top of the booster. Somewhere along the way the seat for that bleeder has been damaged. The booster sits higher than the master cylinder is it is important to bleed the booster at that bleed valve before trying to bleed any of the wheels. There were still a few air bubbles in the master. I used an old brake line and some tubing I had to “bench bleed” the master cylinder. I disconnected the line from the master to the booster. ![]() There must be a small amount of clearance there so the piston in the master cylinder can return to the home position and completely open the return ports. Make sure you adjust the eccentric on the push rod between the pedal arm and the master cylinder. In the process I learned more than I ever wanted to know about bleeding the brakes on these cars. The prior owner had the booster rebuilt and the indications were that it was working. So I spent quite a bit of timing sorting through various issues. When I purchased our ‘57 in December it had very poor brake performance. If pedal is spongy, it still has air in the hydraulic system.īrake booster installation video (tho its already installed) If pedal is firm but has excessive stroke, adjust brakes at all wheels. Then allow time for fluid to return to the reservoir. Start engine, pump pedal two or three times. Air will escape through compensating port in the reservoir bottom.ĥ. This allows master cylinder to evacuate any air bubbles that may remain in cylinder bore. Refill master cylinder reservoir and slowly pump pedal with no bleeder's open. (is the following necessary - Bleeder screws should be opened on the pressure stroke of the master cylinder and closed on the return stroke).ģ.Ĝontinue around vehicle wheels until all bleeder screws run clear.Ĥ. Pump pedal slowly (or pressure bleed) to avoid creating air bubbles in fluid. Remove the vacuum booster mounting bracket bolts and lift booster from the frame.ġ.ĝO NOT RUN ENGINE and DO NOT LET MC RUN DRY DURING INSTALL STEPSĢ.ěleed power unit. Loosen air inlet hose clamp and disconnect the air inlet hose.ģ.ĝisconnect the hydraulic line from the master cylinder at the booster.Ĥ.ĝisconnect the vacuum line hose at the booster.ĥ.ĝisconnect the hydraulic line from the booster hydraulic outlet.Ħ. Heres a general install and bleed procedure that ive been able to piece together (please comment with your experience because im not sure some of this is correct yet?):ġ.ĝepress the brake pedal several times to remove all vacuum from the system.Ģ. its been hard to find information so I thought i would collect some links here AND ask the group to weigh in with your experience. Our dropped spindle kit is compatible with stock or tubular control arms.Ive been scouring the net for instruction help. These specially designed coil springs maintain the stock rating unlike cutting original springs yourself. The dropped spindles can also be used in conjunction with our 2" dropped coil springs PIN 21-133 to really put the car in the weeds. ![]() Dropped spindle sare the way when updating the front end to disc brakes since all of the front steering and suspensoin ride height geometry remains unchanged.Our 2" dropped spindle kit PIN 21-103 uses the large GM single-piston disc brake calipers and 11" vented rotors, unlike other kits that use much wheelsand tires. To lower the front, you can cut the original coil springs, install lowering coil springs or dropped spindles.Cutting the stock coil springs is not the way to go because cutting changes the spring ratingand gives a harsh, bouncy ride. To lower the rear, lowering springs and loweringblocks are available. Changing the overall height and stance of a Classic give the car a whole new look. ![]()
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